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Friday, August 5th, 2011

Tanzanian bus ride - 7 hours

Taxi to the airport in Uganda- 45 minutes

Waiting for my flight in the Entebbe airport- 9 hours

Flight to Amsterdam- 8.5 hours

Layover in Amsterdam- 3.5 hours

Flight to Minneapolis- 8 hours

Taking my first hot shower in 13 days- priceless!

I am finally home after a long journey back to Minnesota.  The bus ride was not as dramatic as I had imagined.  To be honest I envisioned sharing public transportation with a goat or at least some chickens but that was not the case.  Aside from the bus being old, very full and stopping many times along the way- it was just like taking the bus in Minneapolis. 

Thank you so much for following along with this amazing experience! I hope that you will consider traveling to Tanzania and especially Bukoba in the future. The people alone are worth the trek.

Gertrude Stine spoke of her connection to Paris and that quote truly shows my sentiment after this journey.   

America is my country, but Bukoba is my hometown.

Last day at Kiteyagwa

Tuesday, August 02, 2011

My last day at Kiteyagwa.  After I was dropped off in the morning I spent some time observing a Geomotry class in grade 7.  The teacher, Richard, had to write out the lesson (shapes and measurements), teach and I can understand how it is impossible for him to get around and check to see how all 74 students in the class are doing.  The students were working hard at taking notes but they were sharing erasers, rulers and even a couple of students were sharing a notebook. 



Richard teaching Geometry



Students taking notes

 One person that has meant so much to me is Justina, the principal.  She refers to me as her sister and I have been able to ask her any questions I have about the school and Bukoba in general.  We actually discussed her family and the fact that she is working to support her brother’s three children while also putting her own two kids through college (her oldest is going into law and her second is in mass communications).  She shared that she was worried about her niece, Gloria, who would be graduating from 7^th grade in November.  She would like to send her to secondary school but doesn’t know if she can afford the $700-$800 a year to in role her in a quality school. Many students go through the basic seven grades but can’t afford to take the next step in their education. 

As much as this trip has meant to me, saying goodbye to these teachers broke my heart.  They wanted to do something special for a gift and pooled money together to buy fabric since they knew how much I love the skirt I had made here.  It was very humbling that these people would pool their money for me and the skirt and coin purse will be cherished forever!

Fabric from the teachers

In truth, I am really struggling with gifts all together. I am so grateful for the hospitality that has been shown and seeing them spend money on gifts is too much.  I can not even begin to describe the emotions and appreciation I have. My heart is full. It has been a truly humbling experience!

After spending time in Bukoba I feel it is extravagant to hire a driver for the return trip to Entebbe.  The bus is around $15 verses several hundred to hire a driver.  Smart has made all the arrangements and I am not sure if I should be writing this information since my mother will begin worrying.  DON’T WORRY MOM!! I WILL BE FINE!!! There are people who will take me from the bus straight to the air port and I will have many hours before my flight leaves.  My first experience with African public transportation!! I’m sure I will have a considerable amount to write next time!

Last tour of Bukoba

Monday, August 1^st, 2011

Today we are going back to the villages of Izigo and Kangabasharo. This area is so beautiful.   I am not a “nature” person but driving through all of the terrain is very beautiful!  I traveled with the Global Citizens Network (GCN) group that will be working with One Woman, One Goat to build a farm for several women to start this next phase of their business. 

Smart took GCN on a tour of all the regions that COSAD works with, much like he did for us.  It was fun to take new people to the school at Kiteyagwa and also amusing that the children remember me and talk about our time playing Duck, Duck, Goose or answering questions in the classroom.  The teachers also remember me and I enjoy working with them to get their profiles and pictures.  Many of the teachers are surprised and laugh when they see their picture on my digital camera.  I love the teachers at this school and they have been very welcoming! They are my people- teachers of the world unite!  They invite me into their lounge, poor me tea and willing to share even the little that they have.

We visited the COSAD resource center which is on the grounds of the Kiteyagwa school. The small building has four rooms, one for the CHI nursing office, one for TASE or the business office and then two for the education resource area.  There have been many books donated but I was still overwhelmed at the sparse selection, especially books for children to read. The fiction area seems to have higher level books like Harry Potter or Treasure Island but the level students were speaking English is lower, I don’t know where they are at for reading.  Smart hopes to have one of the rooms full of books- for teachers and students. The other would be a comfortable area with a table and chairs where people come and read or have a meeting.  Although it is so easy to donate books from America, they are also in need of books written in Swahili.


COSAD resource center



In the teacher’s lunchroom/office/conference room, there are only student desks in the classroom, is next to the primary school and all teachers use it to correct or do paper work.  There are no shelves and papers are piled on desks or the floor.  Teachers use this room for grading when they have their prep period and even make tea for each other.



teacher's lounge

After we left the school, we drove to Izigo and the COSAD office in town.  Several people met us there, some of the woman from the One Woman, One Goat program and singers from a choir in town (some of them are sewing singers) including Joyce and Jasper.  The choir sang for us and Joyce spoke to the group, explaining the program and what they hope to accomplice while GCN is in Bukoba. 



Meeting with Joyce, sewing singers and women from the OWOG program

One choir made up of mostly Sewing singers

 We walked to Joyce’s home (20-30 minutes) for lunch.  The farm that GCN is building will be close to Joyce’s house so she can provide water for all of the animals.  Joyce is one of the most amazing women I have met. Her husband is a teacher but she runs not only her own farm (of about 20 goats, 1 cow, and several chickens) but she also runs COSAD in Izigo and is the coordinator of OWOG (One Woman, One Goat where she personally visits all 100 women involved on foot).  She is involved in three choirs and participates in nine woman’s groups in town.  Obviously she doesn’t sleep but it makes me wonder what I would be capable of doing if I didn’t watch television or surf the internet.  She was a wonderful host for lunch and her home is quite beautiful.  I was also impressed at the fact that she is one of the few people I have seen with pets; she owns several cats that come inside and also has a dog.  While GCN was touring the site I took pictures of her family that I hope to print off and send back for her to have in her home. 

Walking to Joyce's home

 

Joyce's grandchildren helping with the goats



Joyce's farm



Joyce took us to visit several other women involved in the OWOG program.  This area is very rural and the “roads” to homes consist of a small worn path through the brush.  I am excited to see how this goat farm and enterprise benefit the women in this community!

We also toured Kangabasharo before heading home.  The walking tired me out and although I am truly enjoying my time here…I have the strongest craving for a cheeseburger.  If you are in town on Thursday afternoon look for me at Hoppers! I might even try the belt buster challenge if I really have a death wish. 

See you soon! Erika

Driving in Tanzania

Saturday, July 30, 2011

It is the last day with Anna and her mother, Mary.  We did some shopping around town and grabbed some lunch before they flew off to Mwanza.  As we waited for them to board the plane a truck drove through, scaring the goats off the runway.  There also seem to be a large amount of wild dogs that congregate at the airport. 

After they had left, Hope and I walked back into Bukoba.  Smart was doing some shopping and business downtown and I ran some errands while he was working.  It was fun to walk the city and people were very helpful. 


downtown Bukoba




people walking on the roads

On the way home, Smart needed to bring his car, as well as the van back to the COSAD house so I followed him from town to the COSAD house.  My very first experience driving internationally!  It was dark and the roads were quite rough but it was interesting going through town without any stoplights or signs.  Driving on the opposite side is not as big of a deal as I would have expected. 

Thank you

Thank you so much for the comments. We have loved hearing from the friends and family back home and knowing that you are following along with our adventure!  Your kind words are very appreciated!

Back at Kiteyagwa

Friday, July 29th, 2011

The honeymoon is over and people are now expecting that if I can learn Swahili- I should also learn Kihaya, the language of the Kagara region where Bukoba is located. As I stumble my way through Swahili the people here have been very helpful in telling us the Kihaya word as well…the problem is that I am not doing so well at remembering everything. Swahili is very basic and words are not masculine or feminine depending on who you referring to. Kihaya, however, is quite difficult and the greeting or word changes if you are talking to a man, woman, child and also changes depending on the time of day. I hope I can find this language as well on my Youtube tutor.

Today we went back to the Kiteyagwa to help in the classrooms. I am also working with COSAD to create a profile for all of the schools to connect with their website. This will hopefully allow people to follow along with the school and see how even the smallest of donations can make a huge impact in this area.

Anna and I sat in a in a 5th grade class as they finished their English lesson. Because there aren’t any teaching aids, repetition is the main approach that we have seen. The teacher will write then sentence on the board and then the students will repeat it. There are a few text books for the class but for what we have seen, 4-6 students will be sharing one book. Every student has a notebook that they use to copy assignments but that paper must last the whole year. The notebooks we observed were very dirty since they are carried back and forth every day. After the lesson, the teacher asked the students if they had any questions for us. At first they thought they had to ask in English and were very shy but he allowed them to speak Swahili or Kihaya and
he would translate. I’m not sure what I was expecting but these kids drilled us on questions about America. I guess when I think of 5th grade I would expect questions about the weather or what we learn at school and there were a couple of those questions. Mostly, the kids drilled us with questions about government, who was the 8th president of the United States, who were all of the congress men and senators, some questions about big business. I was quite blown away by the level of their questioning but it was a reminder that I should know more about our own government.

Classroom at Kiteyagwa

After taking some pictures we sat down with Justina, the principal and Josaphine, the director of the district to talk supplies they need. Things like teaching aids, posters and text books are desperately needed along with the basic supplies like pencils, markers and paper. The government is supposed to be supplying money for each student enrolled but it rarely happens.

The Mayer of Bukoba invited us to visit his schools since he toured Clearwater during his time in Waconia. The students were just beginning an extended break but we were able to walk through the teacher’s lounge, tour the grounds and meet with the headmasters. This school is much more like the “American” education system but that is easy to achieve when the upper level is pooling their kids in one place. A new hotel was opening in town and Smart took us out for the “last supper” with Anna and her mother. The New Coffee Tree Inn Hotel is located in downtown Bukoba and is owned by the local farmer’s coop. It was fun to see the people from town and it was quite an event. One of the highlights for me was ordering “freedom fries”, which are similar to French fries.

New Coffee Tree Inn Hotel in Bukoba

Anna, Mary, Hope and Erika dressed up for a night out

TMI ALERT!!
On the other hand I had my first experience with the bathroom system outside the COSAD house. I will admit, though somewhat awkwardly, to planning out the amount of water needed to consume each day to meet my hydration need without needing to use a “bathroom” away from the COSAD house. We are very lucky to have a western toilet that flushes. At the hotel we asked Hope if there was a “toilet” and she said she would show us. We arrived in a normal looking bathroom with two stalls. After seeing the “facilities” (aka a porcelain hole in the ground), the need to go magically disappeared. Of cores there are three white women in line for our turn so Anna bucked up and took her turn in line. Mary and I passed and went back outside. I was very impressed with Anna until I found out later that she only went in and stood in the stall the required amount of time to make it LOOK like she had actually gone. I appreciate the women of Africa more ever day as I see what they go through.

Good night,
Erika

Visit to Kangabasharo and Inzigo

Thursday, July 28TH 2011

“The use of traveling is to regulate imagination by reality, and instead of thinking how things may be, to see them as they are.” – Samuel Johnson

Today we visited the some villages outside of Bukoba. I am amazed at how “Mountainous” it is in this area. I need some help from the Geography teachers to know the correct Geo term to describe the area but it reminds me of trips to the Black Hills in South Dakota….but with jungle. Many times as we drive to different areas of the town, my ears will pop from the changing pressure. The Drive to Kangabasharo was very rough and slow going. We had to go down into a valley and although there is a lot of greenery I was told that it is not a fertile area. Smart informed us that Kangabasharo is the poorest region that COSAD works with. Part of the struggle is that people can not grow many types of food. Right outside the COSAD house there
are banana trees and pineapple bushes but in Kangabasharo, even the bananas trees struggle to produce any fruit.

Road to Kangabasharo



Homes in the village are tucked away on the hill

Because of the lack of food, students in that region don’t always attend school because they are too hungry to make the trek. Students walk for hours to school all over the city but touring the Kangabasharo school was truly heartbreaking. The poverty was very apparent in the student’s clothing and the fact that many did not have shoes. In the previous school we visited, Kiteyagwa, students often had shoes that didn’t fit and were too big but at Kangabasharo, very few students even wore shoes.

Kangabasharo school

One of the things teachers at Kangabasharo would like COSAD to do was serve breakfast for students as an incentive to attend each day. Smart is very hesitant about bringing in food without parents somehow being involved. In my “American” thinking I struggle to see students needing something like food and not rushing out right away to buy it. Smart is very wise in his mission of COSAD and would like to somehow empower the parents to produce something or get a loan for a goat. Empowering the parents help them to see the importance of education and it ultimately benefits the community- not just the students.

We walked to a home in Kangabasharo and I was amazed at the contrast between the “poor” living in a city like Bukoba and the way people in Kangabasharo live. We met Smart’s great-aunt, Anna Marie. We were invited into the first area of her home, which was made of clay. There were no windows and the room was not even large enough for all five of us to sit down. She was happy to take pictures and asked Smart to bring her back some shoes.

Walking from the school to the village.

Inzigo is another village about 30 miles from Bukoba. This area is also poor but it is the home of the COSAD One Woman, One Goat project. Smart said the women of this village were some of the hardest working he has ever seen and I can believe it from the conditions we saw. We met Joyce, the coordinator of One Woman, One Goat and Consolatha, who organizes the Sewing Singers.



Joyce, Consolatha and Smart

One Woman, One Goat is a project where a woman takes out a loan (from COSAD) for a goat. COSAD provides a goat, and builds a pen for it to be kept. The woman can use the goat to produce milk for her family as well as to sell as a business to bring income into the home. There are over a hundred women that are a part of the program right now but because it is so hard to get water in this area, many of the goats are not producing milk. Joyce took us to meet a couple of the women in the program and both have already repaid their loans and were beginning their own heard of goats. One of the women did talk about the water issue and shared that she has to walk over a half hour to find water and even then, she only has one water jug which she uses to bring back water for her family.

COSAD and Joyce are working in the next few weeks to begin phase two of the program and rather then women all raising their own goats, they will work together on a centrally located goat farm. Also, the homes are spread apart and the only way to reach them is by walking. Even if the individual goats begin producing milk, it would be hard to go around and pick up a liter from each. COSAD has already found a private school that will purchase the milk once the farm is up and running. Each woman would be a share owner in this enterprise. What an amazing program!!!

The Sewing Singers is a choir in Inzigo that helps COSAD provide uniforms for students in the Kagera region. It costs around $20 for all of the fabric and supplies to make a school uniform including shirt, sweater and shorts or skirt. The singers have all been trained on how the stitching should be done for government protocol on the uniforms and while the choir sings in practice, they sew. All students attending a public school must have a uniform. Although they might start out with one as a child, if they grow out of it- they are unable to come to school until they find a new one that fits. Twenty dollars is more then many families, especially in some of the villages, make in a month. Even then, the money is usually needed to buy other supplies in the
family. COSAD has received many donations that have been use toward providing education for these students. The uniform is never just “given” to families but Smart will go to the family and find out what they can provide instead. If COSAD gives a “loan” for the uniform what can the family sell them that will pay back the debt? The child is able to receive an education and the family doesn’t feel like they are receiving charity, but instead is earning the money. When the loan (weather paid in produce or money) is paid back, COSAD can turn around and scholarship another student with those same funds. The scholarships and support from the US has made a huge difference in the lives of hundreds of children here.

I know I am not explaining either of these programs as well as they have been told to me but please check out the COSAD website to the left for more information about their organization. What an amazing way to change a community one goat or uniform at a time. The proverb of give a man a fish and feed him for a day or teach a man to fish and feed him for a lifetime has never been so strong in my mind as when I am visiting this area with COSAD.

Since Inzigo is quite a ways out of town we went to visit Jasper, a member of the Imuka singers that was unable to come to the US for their tour but made all of the drums sold at the concerts. COSAD hired Jasper to make over two hundred drums which they sold in the US to pay for their tour. Through this sale, his hard work and amazing attitude, Jasper is able to provide much better for his family. In Tanzania it is common for extended family to live together so Jasper cares for his wife, children and some relatives in his modest house but with his new enterprise he is making plans for a nicer home.

Eating lunch in Jasper's home

Jasper carving a drum

Jasper's workshop

Jasper's family with us outside his workshop

Jasper welcomed us into our home and the shy man I met at the Imuka dinner back at the COSAD house was replaced with a very proud man who showed off his home, family and booming business. Because of the Imuka tour, Jasper has received orders and offers from people in the U.S. who will help him sell the drums all over the US and online. He is now the owner of a company and will have to employ around 50 people to get the orders finished.

Jasper’s home was a simple clay home, made up of three or four rooms. The dirt floors had been recently covered with fresh straw and a mat for us to sit and eat. There was a chicken laying some eggs in the corner but we tried not to disturb her. The reception was so warm and friendly. Jasper was very proud to have us in his home and many of his extended family came to see us.

It was a busy day and we were all tired by the time we headed back home.

Tuta onana baadaye (see you later), Erika

Day spent around Bukoba

Wednesday, July 27th, 2011
Today was a casual day around Bukoba. With our transportation being serviced and a surprise visit from the Tanzanian “IRS”, it was too late in the day for us to begin the drive to outer villages. Anna and I were able to visit the Internet café and spend some time walking around downtown. I will admit that our presence is more warmly accepted when Smart is with us. We have never been treated rudely but it does reinforce the fact that Smart is very respected here.

Since we were in town, Hope took us shopping for some fabric. The colors and patterns worn by the women here are beautiful. Matching and color coordinating are not important but there is functionality to all of the clothing. Woman wear skirts and usually matching tops but they also carry a piece of cloth over their shoulder which I later found out is like a jacket or shawl if they get cool. I was told in the fabric store that if you are going out on a date, you would wear some kind of cloth or fabric wrapped around the top of your torso and arms. This look is supposed to be sensual which was funny considering that our American idea of dressing is quite the opposite. How great would it be teaching 8th graders when being completely covered is “sexy”. No more having to fight over ridiculously short skirts and spaghetti strap tops.

Hope, one of the Imuka singers, is helping take care of us at the COSAD headquarters. She is a fantastic cook and laundry has been done sometime this morning and is now drying in the courtyard. Flavia is a nine-year-old girl who is staying here as well. Her mother is the caretaker at the COSAD house so. She is very sweet yet I have found her to be quite ruthless when it comes to playing games. As a teacher I have spent years “nurturing” young minds and their self esteem so playing cards with a forth grader, I thought I would need to go easy. As the night went on, I came to realize that the first few games were a courtesy to me. She is quite talented at cards and proceeded to “school” me several times. Even playing my hardest, she was a tough cookie to beat (which I did only a couple of times).

Flavia

The food has been amazing during our time in Africa. Fruit is very plentiful and Hope even made fresh passion fruit juice in the blender. We eat a lot of rice and green bananas but usually there is cabbage, beef and even sometimes flatbread that goes with. For breakfast we usually eat hard boiled eggs, bread and tea.

Cooking with Hope outside

Dinner of greans, fried bananas, meat and rice

The Imuka/COSAD family seems very close and we are privileged to be invited into it. The people we spend time with regularly are Smart, Hope, Justina and Edison. We (Mary, Anna and I) often refer to Edison as “Waldo” because he is like the Bukoba version of “Where’s Waldo”. We will part ways with him and then he keeps popping up everywhere we go. It has become a game to find him in the crowd.

Technology has been a little bit of a struggle. The internet café in town has been a savior for updating the blog but with all of running we do every day- I hate to make everyone stop for me to go online. I do apologize for the gaps in updating.

Hope all is well back home.
I love and miss you all,
Erika

Bukoba -Kiteyagwa School/Student Photo Journey

Ms. Arndt showing students Video Camera

Kiteyagwa Students Playing in School Yard

Kiteyagwa Students

Frieda Teaching Pre K "Counting"

Kiteyagwa Girls Welcome Poem Ceremony

Pre K using bottle caps to learn "counting"

Kiteyagwa Student Welcome Parade

Kiteyagwa Students

Kiteyagwa Classrooms

Kiteyagwa Students Showing Soccer Ball (Made of Plastic Bags)

Kiteyagwa Student Uniform (kinda dirty & in need of buttons)

Kiteyagwa School

Kiteyagwa Student Close Up

Kiteyagwa Students singing the ABCs

Teaching

July 26 

Another amazing day!  I know it is only our fourth day but I can't imagine leaving the people of Bukoba.
 
Our schedule yesterday changed because of testing in the Kiteyagwa school. I KNOW-testing even follows us to Tanzania!!  The students in grade 7 have district examinations Wednesday and Thursday so we spent the day with them and will visit some of the other school while they are taking their exams.  Kiteyagwa has become such a sanctuary for me. I have completely fallen in love with the students and teachers. 

We observed Frieda, a Pre-K/Kindergarten teacher, in Kiteyagwa.  She was an inspiration-1.) because she teaches 4-6 year olds (93 of them!!), and 2.) she has made wonderful learning tools for her students from garbage or whatever she has lying around.  I will admit that the idea of going into a classroom with 4-6 year olds was quite intimidating (we all know how well I do lass, and helping Frieda was a wonderful experience.  Her classroom is decorated with all kinds of posters that she has made of letters, vowls, pictures of animals, and numbers.  The posters are written on random paper or the insides of boxes with markers.  The language barrier is hard to gap with these young students - what is your name or other greetings) was lost on them since they are learning Swahili along with English. Most young students only know the local language.

Frieda teaching addition

counting using bottle caps

with 94 students in the class, it is hard to check that all of them are understanding

Unfortunately, we were something of a novelty and while level seven was preparing for the examinations and using the other classrooms, the level 1-6 students were outside looking in the window at us and trying to touch us through the door or windows.  Frieda was unstoppable, which must be a testament to how many distractions there are for her as a teacher with these small kids.  While the students were working on numbers and simple addition, she and her aid corrected the work books. Many students needed help or more direction but with only two teachers- it was impossible to get to them all.  After the primary students were dismissed at 11am, we spent time with the level 1-6 students  during their play time drew immediate attention and we were swarmed with students.  They all push to get in the picture, many holding up their hands and blocking to make sure they are seen.  Rather then just let them fight to be seen, Anna tried to have the students sing or show us some dances but they were still quite focused on getting in front of the lens. We tried to come up with a distraction so after putting the students into a circle (we started with almost a hundred students and it grew as the game went on), we taught them how to play Duck, Duck, Goose.  The words were lost and they dried to imitate the noise we were making without success but they really enjoyed the game.  The flaw in our plan was that because we were Mizugu (white traveler), we we hundred students, racing children who walk for hours to school each day was not what we had and honestly tried to beat me back to the starting place.  So much for wearing a skirt to school.

The Regional Director of Kagando (similar to our school district where the Kiteyagwa school is located) was visiting the school, helping the administration prepare for the exams over the next few days.  We felt very lucky to meet her and had no idea that our play time made such a good impression with her.  She spent the rest of the day with us, having lunch and even joining the party with the Imuka singers back at the COSAD house.  

It was very hard to leave the school but we promised to visit again Friday so Mary and Anna can say goodbye.  

The Imuka singers gathered tonight for some fun and fellowship and we were very lucky to have a private concert.  Some Imuka members we know from their time in America, like Hope, Justina, Edison, Joas and Smart.  Others we were meeting for the first time and they welcomed us like family.  This was their first time gathering since their tour concluded and it was fun to hear them discuss what happened. Obviously pizza was not a hit. 

Those of you close to me know averse I am to being touched but my new adopted Bukoban family is clueless.  Hugging, touching and even holding hands is common between friends (rafiki= friend in Swahili) in Tanzania.  I will admit to being taken aback the first time one of the women held my hand but it is quite common between even men.  Now that it is day four I am appreciating the reception- even if it is a big hug. 

Since we are on the topic of affection- Michele Melius would be happy to hear that Anna may have found a Tanzanian husband...if you don't count that multiple wives is a status symbol here in Bukoba. I will admit to being VERY entertained at how uncomfortable the barrage of attention is making her. We also laugh at the lack of attention given when his fiancé is present.  On the bright side I could possibly have a place to stay when I return to Bukoba. 

Peace and "Love" from Africa,
Erika